November
Climate
In the first half of November, day highs are usually around 20oC and lows, around 10oC. In the last half, day highs are between 14 oC and 18oC and lows, 6oC and 10oC.
November is another busy month, with potting on, pinching, caring of autumn
cuttings, and seedlings which have just germinated.
Pinching
The photos show Gartenmeister Bonstedt (5 cm pot) grown from a cutting.
You can pinch several times before spring.

Before pinching

After pinching
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Pruning
The plant shown on the right is Pink Opal, the 2007 introduction of the
Angel's Earring series fuchsias.
It shed lower leaves during the summer, as shown.
If you pinch off the growth tips, the side shoots would appear from the
uppermost joints and the lower part might remain leaf-less.
So, I've decided to prune the plant first.
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Shown on the right is the closeup of the lower part of the plant.
Assume that you wish to have side shoots from one of the leaf-less joints
shown by white circles.
If you cut the branch just above the encircled leaf-less joint, the whole
branch can be die back. So, it's advisable to locate the lowest joint where
a pair of leaves is attached, and cut the branch just above it.
This encourages side shoot development from that joint and the leaf-less
joint just below it, while preventing the whole branch from dying back.
When side shoots develop from the encircled joints, the branch can be pruned
again just above either of them.
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Autumn flowers - clear and vivid
Most fuchsias are as long-day plants. Some of them, however, come in bloom also in autumn.
Day-neutral cultivars, known as triphylla hybrids such as Gartenmeister
Bonstedt, Billy Green, Bornemann's Beste (photo), are excellent in autumn.
Flower colors becomes clearer and more vivid: the climate in November is
optimal for fuchsias. Individual flowers also last longer.
It's a pity that many fuchsia growers in Japan have to make some efforts
to overcome intense heat before they can enjoy autumn flowers.
The efforts are worth making, and I wish as many growers as possible to
be successful in keeping their fuchsias alive through to autumn.
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Germination
Leaves appearing from the seeds of Gartenmeister Bonstedt x Wassernymph
sown on Oct. 13 (6 cm pot).
(photo Nov. 7)
Germination of F. fulgens.
It was sown on Oct. 13 and germinated on Nov.4.
(photo Nov. 7)
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Cuttings taken in October
Two weeks have passed since I took cuttings on Oct. 23 (photo Nov.8). Softwood
cuttings not shrivelling after two weeks have taken root in most cases.
In general, propagation by softwood cutting is more successful in autumn
than spring.
The cuttings will be transferred to larger clay pots in December.
I'll keep them from flowering during the next year (= year of 2008) to
make a good framework.
Then, I'll have them bloom the spring after next (= year of 2009).
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Other works to do
On November 18, the weather forecast said the mercury would drop to 5oC the next morning. It is unusually low for this time of the year. So,
I attached bubble wraps around the potting bench to convert it to a mini
greenhouse.
Individual pots are also covered as required.
My balcony is ready for winter and this completes one cycle of fuchsia
cultivation.
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Tip/s I keep in mind is/are to:
- Avoid overfeeding, because growth of fuchsias begins to slow down.
Term/s:
- Side shoot - A new branch growing up by the side of another.
- AmeDAS - Automatic Meteorological Data Acquisition System installed by the Japan Meteorological Agency. A total of 13,000 AmeDASs are installed across Japan (as of January 2007). The measurement data are accessible via the Internet.
This is the last month of "The fuchsia year."
I hope the information contained in this series is helpful to you.
Good growing!
(November 30, 2007)
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